Fix My Glock: Difference between revisions

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* the frames are relatively easy to print

Despite the brilliant simplicity of the design, it's still a precision machine that relies on well made parts, correct assembly, and maintenance of precise tolerances. Beginners expecting a "cookbook" build often find themselves with a malfunctioning gun and no idea how to fix it. This guide

Despite the brilliant simplicity of the design, it's still a precision machine that relies on well made parts, correct assembly, and maintenance of precise tolerances. Beginners expecting a "cookbook" build often find themselves with a malfunctioning gun and no idea how to fix it. While this guide can help you find problems in a completed build, it's main focus is helping you not encounter those problems in the first place.

This guide is not meant to provide "quick fix" answers. If you have the attention span of a coked-out squirrel, consider purchasing a mass-produced Glock. Law Enforcement "trade-in" Glocks are widely available at prices significantly cheaper than buying all the parts for a build. However, if you're willing to take a methodical and detail-oriented approach, read on ...

== Troubleshooting Your Print ==

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** Con: Support scars are on "visible" areas of the completed frame. Not a big disadvantage with tuned support interfaces.

* Angle: Horizontal (rails parallel to build plate). This is the correct orientation for both rails-up and rails-down prints. Do ''NOT'' angle the frame up or down. Layer adhesion strength is directly proportional to layer surface area. Angled printing reduces layer surface area in critical places like the front rail and locking block pin holes. "Intuitive" arguments in favor of angled layers opposing the direction of frame stress are provably incorrect.

=== Calibration ===

You're going to be installing commercially manufactured parts in your frame so it's critical that your frame dimensions be correct. Many filaments have some amount of shrinkage as they cool. If you do not account for that, you may have difficulty fitting parts and/or getting the build to function. The solution is using a calibration print to measure dimensional changes and adjust scaling factors in the slicer. There are many tools available -- from [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865 simple calibration cubes] to complex designs like [https://vector3d.shop/products/califlower-calibration-tool-mk2 Califlower] and [https://vector3d.shop/products/calilantern-calibration Calilantern]. The infamous [https://www.3dbenchy.com/ 3D Benchy] is actually a calibration tool with detailed measuring instructions on the website.

In all cases, you need to print the calibration tool with the same settings you plan to use for your Glock frame. Changing things like infill or number of walls to speed up the print may give you incorrect results. Take measurements on your calibration print using a set of calipers that are accurate to at least 0.1mm. Inexpensive Chinese digital calipers like you can find at Harbor Freight are usually good enough.

If you have a Prusa-derived slicer (Prusa, Bambu, Orca, etc.) you will compute ((actual / expected) x 100) and use that for "Shrinkage" in the filament settings in your slicer. Some slicers have separate Shrinkage settings for XY and Z dimensions, so use appropriate measurements for each.

It is also recommended that you tune flow ratio since that can have a significant effect on strength. [https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide Ellis' Print Tuning Guide] has a section on "Extrusion Multiplier" tuning that covers this. Ideally, you should run all the calibration tests in Ellis' guide, but shrinkage and flow ratio are usually enough to get a usable frame print.

=== Pin Holes ===

The four pin holes (front rail, trigger, locking block, rear rail/trigger housing) give many people grief. Even with good printer calibration, these holes will often print just slightly undersize. Designs keep the tolerances on these tight because you can always make the holes larger, but it's pretty hard to make them smaller. Always test fit pins before assembly. The pins should fit snug, but not tight. Installing the pins with any significant amount of force will lead to frame failure. If it doesn't immediately crack the frame, it will create stress that significantly weakens the frame around the pin holes.

If a light tap is not enough to get a pin through the hole, the hole must be enlarged. There are two recommended ways to do this:

# Use high-quality metric (3mm and 4mm) drill bits to cut the holes to the correct size. Do NOT use fractional inch sizes that are "approximately" the same. Do NOT use a power drill for this. Use a hand chuck or simply clamp the bit with Vise-Grip pliers so you can turn it by hand. Don't force it -- let the bit do the work. Work slowly and carefully to keep the hole straight and remove as little material as possible.

# Chuck the actual pin in a variable speed power drill. Align the pin with the hole in the frame and run the drill at low speed to "spin" the pin into the hole as though you were driving a screw. Friction will heat the polymer in the frame allowing it to deform to the exact size of the pin. Keep in mind that you do not want to actually liquefy the polymer, just get it hot enough to deform around the pin.

The second technique will produce the strongest holes, but takes a little more practice to get right.

== Troubleshooting Your Build ==

@@ Line 8: / Line 8: @@
 * the frames are relatively easy to print
-Despite the brilliant simplicity of the design, it's still a precision machine that relies on well made parts, correct assembly, and maintenance of precise tolerances. Beginners expecting a "cookbook" build often find themselves with a malfunctioning gun and no idea how to fix it. This guide
+Despite the brilliant simplicity of the design, it's still a precision machine that relies on well made parts, correct assembly, and maintenance of precise tolerances. Beginners expecting a "cookbook" build often find themselves with a malfunctioning gun and no idea how to fix it. While this guide can help you find problems in a completed build, it's main focus is helping you not encounter those problems in the first place.
+This guide is not meant to provide "quick fix" answers. If you have the attention span of a coked-out squirrel, consider purchasing a mass-produced Glock. Law Enforcement "trade-in" Glocks are widely available at prices significantly cheaper than buying all the parts for a build. However, if you're willing to take a methodical and detail-oriented approach, read on ...
 == Troubleshooting Your Print ==
@@ Line 32: / Line 34: @@
 ** Con: Support scars are on "visible" areas of the completed frame. Not a big disadvantage with tuned support interfaces.
 * Angle: Horizontal (rails parallel to build plate). This is the correct orientation for both rails-up and rails-down prints. Do ''NOT'' angle the frame up or down. Layer adhesion strength is directly proportional to layer surface area. Angled printing reduces layer surface area in critical places like the front rail and locking block pin holes. "Intuitive" arguments in favor of angled layers opposing the direction of frame stress are provably incorrect.
+=== Calibration ===
+You're going to be installing commercially manufactured parts in your frame so it's critical that your frame dimensions be correct. Many filaments have some amount of shrinkage as they cool. If you do not account for that, you may have difficulty fitting parts and/or getting the build to function. The solution is using a calibration print to measure dimensional changes and adjust scaling factors in the slicer. There are many tools available -- from [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865 simple calibration cubes] to complex designs like [https://vector3d.shop/products/califlower-calibration-tool-mk2 Califlower] and [https://vector3d.shop/products/calilantern-calibration Calilantern]. The infamous [https://www.3dbenchy.com/ 3D Benchy] is actually a calibration tool with detailed measuring instructions on the website.
+In all cases, you need to print the calibration tool with the same settings you plan to use for your Glock frame. Changing things like infill or number of walls to speed up the print may give you incorrect results. Take measurements on your calibration print using a set of calipers that are accurate to at least 0.1mm. Inexpensive Chinese digital calipers like you can find at Harbor Freight are usually good enough.
+If you have a Prusa-derived slicer (Prusa, Bambu, Orca, etc.) you will compute ((actual / expected) x 100) and use that for "Shrinkage" in the filament settings in your slicer. Some slicers have separate Shrinkage settings for XY and Z dimensions, so use appropriate measurements for each.
+It is also recommended that you tune flow ratio since that can have a significant effect on strength. [https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide Ellis' Print Tuning Guide] has a section on "Extrusion Multiplier" tuning that covers this. Ideally, you should run all the calibration tests in Ellis' guide, but shrinkage and flow ratio are usually enough to get a usable frame print.
+=== Pin Holes ===
+The four pin holes (front rail, trigger, locking block, rear rail/trigger housing) give many people grief. Even with good printer calibration, these holes will often print just slightly undersize. Designs keep the tolerances on these tight because you can always make the holes larger, but it's pretty hard to make them smaller. Always test fit pins before assembly. The pins should fit snug, but not tight. Installing the pins with any significant amount of force will lead to frame failure. If it doesn't immediately crack the frame, it will create stress that significantly weakens the frame around the pin holes.
+If a light tap is not enough to get a pin through the hole, the hole must be enlarged. There are two recommended ways to do this:
+# Use high-quality metric (3mm and 4mm) drill bits to cut the holes to the correct size. Do NOT use fractional inch sizes that are "approximately" the same. Do NOT use a power drill for this. Use a hand chuck or simply clamp the bit with Vise-Grip pliers so you can turn it by hand. Don't force it -- let the bit do the work. Work slowly and carefully to keep the hole straight and remove as little material as possible.
+# Chuck the actual pin in a variable speed power drill. Align the pin with the hole in the frame and run the drill at low speed to "spin" the pin into the hole as though you were driving a screw. Friction will heat the polymer in the frame allowing it to deform to the exact size of the pin. Keep in mind that you do not want to actually liquefy the polymer, just get it hot enough to deform around the pin.
+The second technique will produce the strongest holes, but takes a little more practice to get right.
 == Troubleshooting Your Build ==