Fix My Glock: Difference between revisions

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# Forcefully pull the slide all the way to the rear and verify the dummy round is extracted and ejected. Release the slide and verify the slide fully returns to batter and that another dummy round is chambered. Repeat until all dummy rounds in the magazine have been cycled and the slide locks back on the empty magazine.

'''Troubleshooting:'''

=== '''Troubleshooting Failures''' ===

* Watch this video to better understand how the parts in the gun are supposed to function: https://youtu.be/y2fMRqFEEZI

* Print an ~~armorer~~'s ~~backplate~~ (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3591065) so you can actually see what's going on with the trigger mechanism. '''''WARNING: NEVER FIRE LIVE-AMMUNITION WITH AN ARMORERS BACKPLATE INSTALLED!'''''

* Print an Armorer's Backplate (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3591065) so you can actually see what's going on with the trigger mechanism. This is particularly useful for troubleshooting firing pin engagement and trigger reset issues. '''''WARNING: NEVER FIRE LIVE-AMMUNITION WITH AN ARMORERS BACKPLATE INSTALLED!'''''

=== Live-Fire Testing ===

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# Remove the magazine. Release and remove the slide. Inspect the frame carefully (magnification is recommended) and verify there are no cracks or other damage. Pay particular attention to the areas around the locking block and the magazine release.

# Repeat the single round test 10 - 20 times, inspecting after each shot. If any frame damage is observed, stop immediately. If there are any failures (failure to fire, failure to feed, failure to eject, etc.) stop immediately and troubleshoot using dummy rounds. If testing is successful to this point, it should be safe to fire aimed shots from a normal stance in subsequent tests.

== Common Problems ==

=== Light Primer Strikes ===

Symptom: Firing pin releases when trigger is pulled but round does not fire. Inspecting the round shows no mark or a shallow dent in the primer.

Common Cause: Firing pin is hitting the firing pin safety plunger. The plunger should be depressed by the "shark fin" extension on the trigger bar. Poor slide fit can cause this. If the slide is sitting too high due to rails being too high in the frame or rails being too loose in the slide or frame, the plunger may not be depressed far enough to clear the firing pin. Out-of-spec non-OEM parts found in cheap parts kits can also contribute to this problem.

=== Failure to Return to Battery ===

Symptom: After firing a round, the slide stops short of the full forward position. Trigger is reset, but pulling it either doesn't release the firing pin, or firing pin is released but round does not fire. Inspection of the round may show an off-center light primer strike mark.

Common Cause: Too much resistance in the slide movement. Recoil spring does not have enough energy to overcome the resistance and complete the last part of travel to lock the barrel in place. Perform the steps in the Functional Testing section to determine and correct the source of the resistance.

=== Trigger Won't Release ===

Symptom: Pulling trigger all the way to the rear doesn't release the firing pin.

Common Cause: Trigger housing is loose in the frame. If the trigger housing can rock forward and back, it can prevent the cruciform from moving down far enough to release the firing pin. It's often possible to use a thin piece of plastic as a shim between the front of the trigger housing block and the printed frame. Create and print a shim in your slicer or simply cut a small strip from an old credit card, plastic blister packaging, etc. You can dry-fire test with the shim just slid in place to verify it corrects the problem. If it does, use some "super glue" to permanently fix the shim to the frame.

Possible Cause: Cheap Lower Parts Kits (LPKs) may have poorly made and/or out-of-spec parts. This is particularly common with trigger parts since most parts are stamped instead of machined. Use an Armorer's Backplate to observe the cruciform engagement of the firing pin. If there is too much engagement, it may be possible to correct by bending the cruciform. Do this only as a last resort when all other probable causes have been ruled out. If you do this, you ''must'' use an Armorer's Backplate to verify that you still have sufficient firing pin engagement. Insufficient cruciform to firing pin engagement is unsafe and can lead to uncommanded discharges when the gun is dropped or even roughly handled.

=== Trigger Won't Reset ===

Symptom: Dead trigger (trigger remains in the rearward position) after firing a round.

Common Cause: When the slide returns forward it pushes the trigger connector to the left allowing the trigger bar to move upward under spring tension. Interference between the trigger bar and the frame can prevent this upward movement (which will keep the the firing pin from catching on the cruiciform). Verify the trigger bar can move freely without interference from the frame.

Possible Cause: Cheap Lower Parts Kits (LPKs) may have poorly made and/or out-of-spec parts. This is particularly common with trigger parts since most parts are stamped instead of machined. Use an Armorer's Backplate to observe the trigger reset in dry-fire. If connector does not move far enough to release the trigger bar, consider replacing the trigger parts with genuine Glock parts.

== Asking For Help ==

@@ Line 55: / Line 55: @@
 # Forcefully pull the slide all the way to the rear and verify the dummy round is extracted and ejected. Release the slide and verify the slide fully returns to batter and that another dummy round is chambered. Repeat until all dummy rounds in the magazine have been cycled and the slide locks back on the empty magazine.
-'''Troubleshooting:'''
+=== '''Troubleshooting Failures''' ===
 * Watch this video to better understand how the parts in the gun are supposed to function: https://youtu.be/y2fMRqFEEZI
-* Print an armorer's backplate (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3591065) so you can actually see what's going on with the trigger mechanism. '''''WARNING: NEVER FIRE LIVE-AMMUNITION WITH AN ARMORERS BACKPLATE INSTALLED!'''''
+* Print an Armorer's Backplate (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3591065) so you can actually see what's going on with the trigger mechanism. This is particularly useful for troubleshooting firing pin engagement and trigger reset issues. '''''WARNING: NEVER FIRE LIVE-AMMUNITION WITH AN ARMORERS BACKPLATE INSTALLED!'''''
 === Live-Fire Testing ===
@@ Line 73: / Line 72: @@
 # Remove the magazine. Release and remove the slide. Inspect the frame carefully (magnification is recommended) and verify there are no cracks or other damage. Pay particular attention to the areas around the locking block and the magazine release.
 # Repeat the single round test 10 - 20 times, inspecting after each shot. If any frame damage is observed, stop immediately. If there are any failures (failure to fire, failure to feed, failure to eject, etc.) stop immediately and troubleshoot using dummy rounds. If testing is successful to this point, it should be safe to fire aimed shots from a normal stance in subsequent tests.
+== Common Problems ==
+=== Light Primer Strikes ===
+Symptom: Firing pin releases when trigger is pulled but round does not fire. Inspecting the round shows no mark or a shallow dent in the primer.
+Common Cause: Firing pin is hitting the firing pin safety plunger. The plunger should be depressed by the "shark fin" extension on the trigger bar. Poor slide fit can cause this. If the slide is sitting too high due to rails being too high in the frame or rails being too loose in the slide or frame, the plunger may not be depressed far enough to clear the firing pin. Out-of-spec non-OEM parts found in cheap parts kits can also contribute to this problem.
+=== Failure to Return to Battery ===
+Symptom: After firing a round, the slide stops short of the full forward position. Trigger is reset, but pulling it either doesn't release the firing pin, or firing pin is released but round does not fire. Inspection of the round may show an off-center light primer strike mark.
+Common Cause: Too much resistance in the slide movement. Recoil spring does not have enough energy to overcome the resistance and complete the last part of travel to lock the barrel in place. Perform the steps in the Functional Testing section to determine and correct the source of the resistance.
+=== Trigger Won't Release ===
+Symptom: Pulling trigger all the way to the rear doesn't release the firing pin.
+Common Cause: Trigger housing is loose in the frame. If the trigger housing can rock forward and back, it can prevent the cruciform from moving down far enough to release the firing pin. It's often possible to use a thin piece of plastic as a shim between the front of the trigger housing block and the printed frame. Create and print a shim in your slicer or simply cut a small strip from an old credit card, plastic blister packaging, etc. You can dry-fire test with the shim just slid in place to verify it corrects the problem. If it does, use some "super glue" to permanently fix the shim to the frame.
+Possible Cause: Cheap Lower Parts Kits (LPKs) may have poorly made and/or out-of-spec parts. This is particularly common with trigger parts since most parts are stamped instead of machined. Use an Armorer's Backplate to observe the cruciform engagement of the firing pin. If there is too much engagement, it may be possible to correct by bending the cruciform. Do this only as a last resort when all other probable causes have been ruled out. If you do this, you ''must'' use an Armorer's Backplate to verify that you still have sufficient firing pin engagement. Insufficient cruciform to firing pin engagement is unsafe and can lead to uncommanded discharges when the gun is dropped or even roughly handled.
+=== Trigger Won't Reset ===
+Symptom: Dead trigger (trigger remains in the rearward position) after firing a round.
+Common Cause: When the slide returns forward it pushes the trigger connector to the left allowing the trigger bar to move upward under spring tension. Interference between the trigger bar and the frame can prevent this upward movement (which will keep the the firing pin from catching on the cruiciform). Verify the trigger bar can move freely without interference from the frame.
+Possible Cause: Cheap Lower Parts Kits (LPKs) may have poorly made and/or out-of-spec parts. This is particularly common with trigger parts since most parts are stamped instead of machined. Use an Armorer's Backplate to observe the trigger reset in dry-fire. If connector does not move far enough to release the trigger bar, consider replacing the trigger parts with genuine Glock parts.
 == Asking For Help ==